Irregular Sea
Biodegradable materials, recycled fibers, and 3D printing; not the typical elements you’d expect to see in a fashion show, but they came together perfectly for this oceanic collaborative collection.
“For me, it all started with cosplay,” said B.F.A. Fashion Designer, Kendra Rae. “Once you start making cosplay, you realize, ‘Wow, I can make clothing now!’”
Rae’s love of garment construction fully sparked to life during the pandemic, attending online sewing classes with City College, “I was self-taught for three years, so I figured it was time to level up my skills.”
From there, she created a capsule collection that earned her a scholarship to Academy of Art University. Now, Rae is just a step away from graduation, showcasing her art to a larger audience and leaving an impact in her own way.
A major objective of Rae’s is ensuring the materials in her designs are sustainably sourced. “I try to create with a sustainable mindset; always trying to source second-hand fabrics, deadstock fabrics. I try not to buy new if I don’t have to,” explained Rae.
One of the more impressive and innovative parts of this collection is not only her use of 3D printing, but also using a newly publicly available biodegradable filament, a first of its kind. Rae’s enjoyment of designing culminates in the construction of a piece. “My favorite part is making the clothes. Once everything is cut and prepped and ready to go, you can start sewing,” she shared. “That is so satisfying to me; that’s when it starts coming to life.”
This collection is inspired by seafoam and rock formations found on beaches. Featuring seven looks, with a variety of unique silhouettes and equally distinct handiwork, just like waves or incoming tides, each piece is different and offbeat in its compelling way.
With an avant-garde silhouette and inspired design, Rae’s 3D printed dress exhibits her expertise in not only her use of handwoven elements but also her technical skills in merging technology and fashion. Exemplifying her proficiency in the breadth and depth of textile and yarnwork, her B.F.A. Textile Design collaborator Gigi Youngbauer’s fully handmade two-piece summer ensemble is a complex and detailed feat of her abilities. Of their shared looks, we see custom-printed designs on modest silhouettes, interesting and original takes on traditional garments, and a distinctly noteworthy dress, highly reminiscent of seafoam, all in neutral shades and deep oceanic blues.
While there’s difficulty in any intensive creative work, Rae’s grown an appreciation for not always working solo. “I’ve learned I thrive in collaborations, I like working with other people,” she shared. “The school process can be very lonely because you have to do so much work alone, but that’s not how it really is in life.”
The ability to bounce ideas off a partner proved to be a great benefit of this project. “Yes, you have your own grit and determination, but you don’t get there just by yourself,” said Rae.
A shared feeling during this process was an appreciation for the metaphorical meaning of the ocean in this collection. Both an inspiration artistically, and a representation of life ebbing and flowing, with their time in college coming to an end.
“This process has been an emotional mess for me, this is a very distinct end of something, you can’t help but acknowledge that it is the end end,” shared Rae.
A sentiment shared among this group of designers is an emotional investment in their art. “A lot of the collections here are very emotionally led, which I find very endearing,” Rae shared. “We are all collectively emotionally invested in our work rather than just creatively involved.”
For Rae, her passion for fashion design is just as strong as her desire to create accessible and attractive clothing for people who may not be a dress form size or confidently able to wear what they want. She wholeheartedly believes that people deserve to have clothes that fit them and that they want to wear. “I like creating for everyday people, with fashion people look at things and think, ‘Oh, that’s really pretty but I could never wear that’ and it creates a feeling that fashion is out of reach for the average consumer, and I don’t think people should feel that way about their clothes,” said Rae.
After college, Kendra intends to find herself working for a brand aligned with her morals, mainly focused on sustainability. Additionally, she adores having the ability to make and mend clothes for the people around her. “The art of wearing clothes that are made and meant for you is kind of dying,” said Rae. “I love heritage crafts, and I’d like to keep making and mending bespoke clothes as an art form alive.”
Words by Talia Drue Gillette, A.A. Fashion Communication and Styling
Runway photography by Ed Jay.
Conceptual Makeup Lead: Chelsea Mari Heintzman. Hair & Makeup Team Produced by Brandi Moore Agency. Lead Hair: Brittany Jordan. Lead Makeup: Lilia Christo-Ferrigno . Makeup Product: Morphe.
